If you have enough space in your betta tank (like more than five gallons – ten is better), its pretty natural to want to add some more fish. While bettas are territorial, and they may fight with any fish you put into their tank, some fish make much better (betta?) companions for bettas than others.

Here are some good choices for betta tanks. Remember… you really ought to have at least a ten gallon tank to give your betta some room, and twenty gallons is better.

1) Cherry barbs

2) Rasboras. There are many kinds of rasboras. Harlequin, scissortail, red-tailed, clown and pygmy rasboras are all good choices for a betta tank. These fish all school (except for the clown rasboras), so you should get at least six of them to keep them happy. Rasboras won’t grow larger than two inches, max, and many stay smaller than that. They are also colorful, so they’ll complement your betta’s looks. A little band of schooling fish is fun to watch and it makes a nice counterpoint to a lone betta.

3) Danios

4) Small barbs

5) Angel fish

6) Cory catfish

7) Coolie loaches

8) Glass catfish

This is just a starter list. Here’s how to tell if a fish would be a good companion for your betta.

Swimming habits – Pick fish that have similar swimming habits to your betta. In other words, fish that streak around near the surface of the water are going to cause problems – fish like sharks (no, not ocean-going sharks… freshwater fish called “sharks”) and hatchet fish.

Temperature needs – Choose fish that like to be kept a bit warmer than the average community tank. If your betta is happiest at 80 degrees (or at least 78 degrees), choose fish that will be happy at that temperature. Goldfish, for example, are cold water fish and probably aren’t good companions for bettas. Either your betta is going to be cold all the time, or your goldfish is going to be hot all the time.

pH needs – Bettas are pretty easy to accommodate when it comes to pH. Most standard community fishes won’t give you a problem here, but be sure to check. Discus fish, for example, like the gentle currents and warm temperatures that bettas do, so they seem like good tank mates until you consider pH. But discus like a pH around 6.5 or lower, and that’s going to be hard on your betta.

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Lighting doesn’t make sense for a simple betta bowl. Some people do put their betta bowls under table lamps, or use clamp lights. If you want to add a light, that’s fine. The only need for it would be if you have plants that require brighter light that indirect sunlight. Amazon swords, for example, will need extra light, as will many vallsineras.

If you bought a java fern or java moss for your betta bowl/aquarium, you’ll probably be fine with just indirect sunlight. Java ferns and java moss are widely considered the best plants for bettas. Some betta breeders consider java moss an essential item in the breeding and fry-raising tanks. The java moss gives the female betta a place to hide, and later it does the same for the small fry. They can also eat bits of the java moss, which takes one wee bit of that part of the job off you.

For those of us who want just a simple, low to no-tech betta bowl, natural sunlight is the best choice. While it is tempting, do NOT put your betta bowl or tank in direct sunlight. The sun will overheat the bowl during the day, and then at night your betta’s water will have a severe temperature drop. Big hikes and drops in water temperature are even harder on bettas than just being cold all the time.

Direct sunlight also seems to make many bettas really twitchy behaviorally. This does make sense – they evolved to live in ditches and to hide, so they are not used to open water in full sun, but that really is only half an explanation. I don’t know the full explanation of why full sunlight stresses bettas, but it does. Keep your betta out of full sunlight.

Nice indirect sunlight is fine, though. In this sense bettas are a wee bit like ficus trees. Ficus trees can not handle direct sunlight (it burns their leaves) but they do need a fair amount of light. Bright, indirect sunlight is good. My betta, Charlie, is in a bowl that gets bright direct sunlight. There’s an amazon sword plant in his bowl (an eclipse hex 5) that is growing better than plants I used to keep under expensive aquarium plant lights. Of course, we do have algae issues (you put a bowl in even medium sunlight and it will grow algae), so I got a snail, and when I change the water in his tank I swab the inside side down with a paper towel or two. So the algae is under control, and the plant looks great.

If you have a full-scale community tank, complete with a cover, you will need some lighting, even if your tank is next to a bright window during the day. Flourscent bulbs with a plant-friendly full spectrum are an excellent choice. Metal halides are for serious fishkeepers who want to do aquascaping. A good quality fluorescent bulb will cost around $20; metal halide setups start in the hundreds of dollars.

Get yourself a nice cover for your aquarium that will accommodate not one, but two rows of lights, buy good quality flourscents, and you’ll probably be OK with most medium light plants. If you get a glass cover for your tank, you’ll also be able to add another strip of flourescents later if you want to increase the light.

Aim for about two watts of light per gallon of aquarium water and you’ll have nice lush growth in your medium light plants. Do be sure to ask before you buy plants if they require high light, then if they do, pass on that plant. Leave it to the people with the expensive metal halide setups.

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