Feeding – micro worms and baby brine shrimp

Fry need to be fed constantly. This is their primary need at this critical time. And its hard to feed them compared to feeding adult fish, because they are so tiny that most food won’t fit in their mouths.

Most breeders feed new fry freshly hatched brine shrimp. You’ll need to have your brine shrimp hatching timed to about a day or two after your fry have hatched. This means you’ll probably need to get your brine shrimp culture started about the same time you are setting up the spawning tank.

Other breeders feed their newborn fry protozoans that they’ve cultured from protozoan starter cultures. You can buy these from biological supply stores or from fish supply stores online. To get the start kit started, put it in water will some food, such as a dried vegetable and a very small pinch of betta food pellets.

Water changes

Its hard to maintain the water in a fry tank. You need to get the water out, but keep the tiny fry in. Many breeders use turkey basters or siphons to carefully get the water out, then replace it with clean water. Because there is so much food in the water, it gets dirty fast, and fry must have clean water for optimal growth and to prevent disease. An outbreak of disease can wipe out a whole spawn in a matter of days, so the water changes, no matter how much of a hassle they are, are essential.

Separating fry

Some fry will grow faster and larger than their siblings. Within a few weeks of hatching some of them may become so aggressive that they need to be separated. Even if they are not aggressive, the largest fish should be moved to a special tank where they can all get big together, without overpowering and hogging food from their smaller, but possibly just as valuable, sisters and brothers.

Fry raised together will not fight. But if they are separated at any time, upon reunion, they’ll fight like they’ve never met each other.

Bettas are great pets for people who like to travel. Unless you’re going to be gone for over a week, you don’t need to give your betta a second thought before you leave (of course, you’ll clean their tank, right?). A betta will be fine if its not fed for a few days. Even up to 10 days is not a problem.

Bettas with live plants in their bowls will have it even easier than plantless bettas, as a betta will happily pick at the algae on the plant in their bowl for a little snack now and then.

When you get back, up to a week or so later, don’t overfeed your fish or you may make them very sick. Do a light feeding the first 1-3 days, then return them to their usual feeding schedule.

Think of the whole vacation as a fast for your fish.

Weekends & Long Weekends

Don’t worry about your betta. Check the heater before you leave to make sure your betta is warm. Also clean its tank. Don’t leave any of those “vacation feeder” blocks – they’ll make the tank an unholy mess, and probably overfeed & under-nourish your fish.

Short vacations – less than a week

Don’t feed at all. If you’re going away for less than ten days, your betta can just go on a long fast and be fine. If it has a live plant in its bowl, so much the better, as it will nibble a bit on the plant in the interim.

Long vacations – more than a week

For long vacations, have someone feed the fish at least every few days. Because your betta sitter is so likely to overfood your betta, it’s a good idea to measure out the appropriate portion for each days food in a little plastic baggie, or have specific instructions like “4 freeze dried blood worms a day- NO MORE”. That way there can be no confusion, and no guilt for your betta sitter. Again – definitely avoid the vacation fish food blocks offered at the pet stores – they will only make the tank dirty. The food in them is low quality and really won’t do a lot of good for your fish.